These are some brief notes from our journey from Gallician to Mâcon.  We needed to move the boat north to our winter mooring at St Jean de Losne, so this journey was more of necessity than a pleasurable trip in its own right. We had previously taken the boat down the Rhône so had already stopped at some of the places.

Canal du Rhône à Sète

 We left Gallician at 08:40 and arrived at the first lock in one hour. We forgot to call ahead on VHF 18, otherwise the lock would have been ready for us. The Petit Rhône was fairly easy, but with a steady current.  We did not push too hard and continued at about 6-7 kph, reaching the Rhône junction at 13:45.

Arles to Tarascan and Aramon

This is definitely the hardest bit. The current varies a lot.  We normally travel on the canal between 1200 rpm and 1500 rpm,  and make between 7kph and 8kph depending on conditions, going more slowly if this creates wash. At that rpm we slowed to 4-6 kph.  Pushing up the engine speed did not make a lot of difference, so we decided to stick to a comfortable rpm and take what speed that gave us. The hardest part is the bridge at Beaucaire / Tarascan, with a fair bit of rough water, but we did not really slow down there.  Apparently you can call the lock keeper to ask if boats are coming down, and if they are not can sort of ‘blue board’ to the left. This could add 3 kph. In any case, the hard part does not last too long and above the bridge we speeded up for no apparent reason.

Aramon to Écluse de Caderousse

We visited the village and stocked up with food (from the poorly stocked mini supermarket), so did not leave until midday. We also took a short detour to Avignon for fuel, but the capitainerie is closed from 12:00 to 16:00, so we did not wish to wait that long and continued.  We could not see anywhere to stop that did not have a ‘passenger boats only’ sign, so decided to test out the idea of stopping at a lock.  At a respectable time we asked the lock at Caderousse if we could spend the night on the plaisancier pontoon above the lock and stopped there at 18:40. It was peaceful and there were no problems with boats coming through at night.

Conditions on the river were much as before. We noticed that in the lock cut sections we’d slow to about 6-7 kph, but in the natural river sections we could vary between 7 and 9 kph. Again, we settled on a comfortable engine speed and took what came. Using AIS I noticed that commercials were going between 11 kph and 15 kph, so would always catch up fast. If you have AIS it is quite useful to plot a catching boat as a target because it will tell you at what time it will overtake you and will give its length.  That way, as you approach a lock, you will know whether you will fit in together and whether it is worth hurrying a bit to avoid a lock delay.  Of course, the lock keepers control what is happening, but you can generally guess what might happen and be prepared.

Caderouusse to Écluse Châteauneuf du Rhône

Starting fairly early (08:40) the wind was very low and the water calm. It seemed that commercial traffic did not really get going until later, so a good chance of locking quickly was available in the morning.  The worst time seemed to be mid afternoon. You can check the busiest lock times on the Rhône web site (https://www.inforhone.fr/inforhone/FR/Commun/index.aspx).

This section was much as before. Again, we found nowhere to moor so stopped at a lock, this time a little earlier at 16:45.

Châteauneuf to L’Épervière marina, Valence

This was the longest and hardest day – 08:10 to 17:45.  We decided to book ahead, so that, even after more than 50 km we knew that we would have somewhere to stop. Again, the morning was easier – slightly cooler, less wind and a calm river.  We got through the first lock without delay, but had to wait for a hotel boat at the next, which took one hour.  The last 10 km seemed to take an age as the thunder clouds appeared, but we made it into the marina in the dry. To do this we took it in turns to drive and have lunch, tea and coffee and so on.

The marina at Valence is very good. Phone ahead to book and they will give you a pontoon and berth number. We were placed at the end of hammerhead on pontoon E – easy to get to.  The fuel berth is on the right as you come into the marina – again easy to get to and you don’t have to stay in the marina to get fuel. It’s self service with a credit card.  Fuel is available during the normal working day (they turn the machine off outside hours), so it might be better to get fuel immediately on arrival if the pontoon is free.  We pulled over there at 09:00 only to find another boat waiting. We both had to wait until 09:30 until the office activated the system, so we did not get away until 10:00.

The large Casino supermarket is about 15 minutes’ walk away and is well stocked. It takes about 20 minutes to walk to town along the river bank, but is worth the walk.

Valence to Saint Vallier

The next obvious stopping place going north is Les Roches de Condrieu. But it’s a bit of a slog and after waiting for fuel we knew that we’d be very late arriving. We decided the day before to skip one night and booked one night in Condrieu (04 7456 3053) followed by two nights in Lyon (04 7803 2492). To our surprise as we came through Saint Vaillier we spotted a new, large plaisancier pontoon on the right (left bank), so immediately pulled over.  For a change it did not say ‘no mooring’. It was a regular town halte nautique.  After a while a cruiser came along and we shuffled around to let them in.  A bit later a yacht anchored on the bend ahead. There are no services, but we did not need any. The town looks beautiful as you approach from downstream, but it’s a typical dead French small town. The only restaurant of note, the Brasserie near the mooring, was – you’ve guessed it – fermé exceptionel. Friends told us that it is not a bad place to eat. The rest of the town just has kebab shops and a couple of bars. Everything else was shut at 17:00 on Saturday.

Saint Vallier to Les Roches de Condrieu

This was an easy enough leg.  The speed varied as usual with 8-9 kph in open river sections and 6-8 in lock cuts. There was very little river traffic and over the weekend we were on our own in locks several times.

In case it is of use, this was our VHF drill for going upstream.

Içi plaisancier Hilda May.  Nous montons. Nous sommes à (deux) kilomètres de l’écluse. Merçi.

That was always enough.  They occasionally mumbled back something, which I ignored if it was short and I did not understand it (I sometimes cannot follow what English VHF speakers are saying). If they persisted then I’d have to ask them to repeat. This normally only happened if they wanted us to go in behind a commercial, which was fairly obvious. In that case I’d just confirm that this was what we were doing and they were happy.

The marina at Les Roches de Condrieu is very nice and definitely worth a stop, even though we passed an apparently free pontoon a little upstream after we left.  The captain was on the pontoon to greet us as we pulled in. He speaks good English. We opted not to eat out as the best view in town was upstream from our boat on the edge of the pontoons.  The boulangerie in town was closed on Monday morning (of course) and I could not see anything else of note.  Many years ago we stayed in the hotel in Condrieu on the other side of the river and had a splendid meal there, but I have no idea what it is like now. The Condrieu Appellation on the other side is the smallest in France.

Les Roches de Condrieu to Lyon

Another longish day, but not difficult, apart from the section coming upstream to the last lock, which is very slow going, somewhat similar to Beaucaire. As we came up in the lock two students appeared over the top and asked us a few questions. They then gave us a very helpful guide to cruising the Rhône and immediately apologised because we probably knew it all already. Why were they not at the first lock going up?

On this section we spotted many more halte fluviales, just when we did not need them. But it might be worth bearing in mind that it does seem possible to break the journey more easily on this section.

Coming into Lyon you keep left. The Confluence marina is about 2 km upstream on the right. The entrance is just after where hotel boats often stop, just past the orange building. There might be a a space on the wall outside the Capitainerie on the left as you enter. We were directed to the wall on the right just after the bridge. There is 4 M air draft, but if you have a high VHF antenna it might touch.  We were a little nervous about being on the wall next to the new shopping centre, but it was quiet for two nights and we were assured that the place was safe and covered with security cameras.

There is a Carrefour in the shopping centre.

The Vaporetto boat takes you to the old town for €2, so we used it to eat at Les Terraces de Lyon. It was a very nice day out. The Vaporetto took us to Bonaparte bridge and the restaurant is a short walk up the hill behind the cathedral. We came back by Vaporetto also. There is a fixed price lunch time menu for €39 and you can add the sommelier tasting wines (one red, one white glass plus water) for €22.  The views are superb and service is what you expect in a Michelin star restaurant.  We booked on line at http://www.villaflorentine.com/restaurant or you can phone at +33-472565602.

Lyon to St Bernard

Progress above Lyon was much better. Not only was the speed higher (8-9 kph) but the scenery was nicer, the river had less commercial traffic and the time seemed to pass more quickly. The first lock did not take long and it was good to see that the lock keeper was actually in his rightful place in the control tower.

We were aiming to stop at Trévoux for lunch and the evening (we stopped there on the way down), but the pontoon was full – although we could have squeezed in had everyone not left so much of a gap. We continued to PK 35.  It’s an halte fluvial and a sign on the gate says that it is free for up to three days.  Alongside there is a restaurant (€21.50 lunch special, €30+ dinner menu, but we did not eat there) with a cooking school. It’s a pleasant spot in the river.

St Bernard to Thoissey bridge PK 66.4

Progress is easy on this section of the river. The current continued to drop while we were travelling and at times there was no noticeable current coming past a bridge arch or channel marker.

We stopped at Montmerle for lunch. There is a good pontoon and it says that it is limited to boats of 15 M or 20 T, but no-one seems to worry and it was empty when we were there. There was a small market on Friday when we arrived, next to the Spar supermarket, and we bought some fruit and vegetables.

We moved off after lunch and were planning to stop outside the camp site at Trévoux, but it was full, so we continued to an halte nautique at Thoissey bridge.  There are no services, but it’s a very pleasant spot.  The Restaurant du Pont specialises in Fritures (small, fried fish from the river, similar to whitebait) and frogs legs. We had a glass of Champagne for €6 and the bistro menu for €26, sitting on the shade balcony.

Thoissey to Mâcon marina

This an easy two hour run.  The last time we went down through Mâcon we are sure that there were town pontoons, but there is nothing there now, just space for hotel boats. They are doing a lot of bank building work there, so maybe they will be back.  We continued 2 km past the town and into the swanky new marina. It’s about the same price as others (€26 per night) short term, but much more expensive for more than a week – they do not have a special monthly rate. We paid for four nights, having a month’s reservation at Pont de Vaux, later. It’s 1 km to walk to the supermarket and 3 km to the town, so a slightly remote spot. There is an easily accessible fuel berth with diesel at a good price (€1.26 a litre when we were there).

We ate out three times at places that are worth noting.

• Brasserie L’Académie. It’s in the centre of town, so a reasonable walk there and back.  At noon we relaxed in the comfy chairs and enjoyed a coup de crémant, then moved to the back for a simple set menu lunch.  The bill came to €24 per head.
• Ma Table en Vie, Rue de Strasbourg. It’s a simple looking but very interesting restaurant on the marina side of the town.  The walk along the bank to the town is very pleasant both ways.  Menus are presented on a tablet.  The food is very modern and extra small courses are presented.  With a crémant apéritif, an excellent white Burgundy and three courses we paid about €50 per head.
• Pepper ’N’ Sail. This is the small restaurant in the marina, run by one very helpful person.  You can order croissants or bread there for delivery the following day. We had English style fish and chips with an excellent white Burgundy that the owner recommended, followed by local ice cream and a digestif.  The bill was €25 per person.  The atmosphere, looking over the river one side and the port the other, was wonderful.

Summary

Unless you want to give your engine a good workout and use lots more fuel there does not seem to be a lot to be gained from pushing on too hard. We occasionally caught up with cruisers at the next lock when they had disappeared out of sight earlier. Just running comfortably with lower engine noise seems reasonable. In an emergency you can find various bollards and walls to tie up to. If necessary we would have ignored some of the signs and just stopped, but the locks seem a good option. We did try calling one marina, but they were not helpful. We stopped at Ardoise on the way down and it was reasonable.  Cruas might be able squeeze you in, especially if smaller.  On the whole, it’s generally a journey with long days. If you can book ahead to a marina it gives good peace of mind. Otherwise you’ll always find a lock pontoon within 20-30 km.

On the fuel front we checked our consumption on normal canals from Moissac to Port La Robine and were using between 1.5 and 2.0 litres per engine hour. When we checked again at Valence this had gone up to almost 5.0 litres per engine hour, showing that the engine was working hard for most of the journey.

Stuart Barry

Thanks to David Rothery (L’Escapade) for some of the information