The first surprising thing about Lecce was the lack of taxis at the station. We gave up after 30 minutes, risked a local bus that dropped us at some unknown place near the centre, waited some time for Apple Maps to download a local map, then dragged our suitcases across the cobbles to the hotel.
At least the Palazzo Rollo, right in the centre of the historical centre, offered a warm welcome and a refreshing drink on the rooftop terrace, giving us a closeup view of the cathedral bell tower.
Lorenzo, our guide for the morning walk around the centre, was warm and humorous. We found that the 157 churches in Lecce were there as a result of the Pope’s push to recruit Catholics making the journey to fight in the Crusades. Of equal importance was the design of the Spanish style balconies, with a ‘goose belly’ front that allowed posh ladies to stand near the front of the balcony leaving a space for their protruding dresses.
There is no shortage of bars and restaurants in the historical centre. The menus all look remarkably similar, so finding one with the best atmosphere seemed the best bet – OO Zero came out tops. Local primitivo and negroamaro red wines are mostly excellent. At the Taverna Rustica most people were drinking sweet, red wine from a carafe. To our surprise we enjoyed it – and it could still taste good with dessert.
With several trips on foot from our hotel we covered pretty much of the city centre in 2 days. We obviously did not make it to the 157 churches.
Travel tip
Instead of ordering from each section of the menu just order 2 starters – or 2 first courses, or whatever takes your fancy. Visit the cathedral square at night. The floodlit buildings look magnificent.