The expensive taxi was on time and dropped us off early at the country station of Ostuni. The 614 train was the same one on the timetable that had dropped us there 2 days earlier, but annoyingly the carriage configuration had changed with first class now at the back. A short sprint with heavy luggage got us to the back just in time.
Monopoli is another station without a taxi rank. The station map did not show our street, and Apple Maps again would not download, so we headed off in what we hoped was in the direction of the harbour. Amazingly, after a few mis-turns we ended up about 20 minutes later in front of our apartment.
The so-called Al Console Luxury Suite is neither luxury nor a suite. The amenities are all there, but there is barely enough space to walk around the bed, the small entry hall is (perhaps technically) what makes it a suite and the shower cubicle is in the bedroom. We did have a view over the harbour and the apartment is very centrally located. But the rooftop terrace had no shade and the hot tub was out of action. The advertised included breakfast was provided at a small restaurant nearby.
The old city of Monopoli is the only area worth visiting. One of the two listed highlights, the Carlos V, was taken up with a paid photography exhibition. The second is the cathedral – well worth a visit with its vast array of decorated marble columns and walls.
Strolling round the town is pleasant and can be done on an hour or so, and there are many cafés, restaurants and ice cream shops to tempt you to linger. We were hoping for a coastal walk but the main beach area was closed for renovation and the only place to walk was the main road.
Travel tip
Accommodation in the centre is limited and mostly provided by ‘luxury’ B&Bs. Check the description, access and location very carefully. Many can only be accessed on foot or, in the case of the more expensive ones, with a small, golf buggy type shuttle service. Tuesday seems to be a day when many shops and restaurants close. Our favourite 2 restaurants were Osteria Pericci (feels like a family run place, simple but good food and great atmosphere with everyone squeezed in) and Il Brigante (a sightly up market version of the former).
If flying out from Bari avoid the airport bus. It’s cheap (€1 each) but slow, packed and uncomfortable. Better to take the airport train.