The start of our tour of Puglia by train.
Many people would skip Brindisi, but as an air arrival point into the region it’s worth a night or two, despite the slightly unwelcoming airport where one plane load fills the baggage hall and the ancient luggage carousel frequently spills cases onto the floor.
We stayed at the Grande Albergo Internazionale, a rather grand name for a hotel that has lost some of its original lustre and where the 4 * rating is somewhat inflated. Nevertheless, after one night we did start to appreciate its gigantic proportions and marble covered walls and floors that looked more intimate at night.
The historical town centre is a spider’s web of winding alleyways, full of ancient buildings and churches. It’s a sort of microcosm of the more famous Lecce – more down to earth and easy to walk around in a day. Starting at the waterfront, or end of the famous Appian Way, you are led straight into the cathedral square where the typically ornately carved front leads into a much simpler and mostly white interior.
Without any particular plan in mind (the way we prefer to do it) was just wandered around following our noses. Perhaps the most surprising and interesting find was the 12th century Church of San Giovanni al Sepolcro with its original frescos and peaceful garden.
For dinner we did not feel like wandering far from the hotel. Luckily one of the sea-front restaurants looked very welcoming – full of families enjoying a Sunday lunch. By the time we got to eat, later in the evening, the place had calmed down. The star of the evening was a huge, fresh fish on a plate, from which we could choose the weight that we wanted.
Travel tip
If you have plenty of time there are probably very good restaurants tucked away in the town. But you could do worse than checking out the various waterfront restaurants that offer a good choice and value, with a clear view over the water looking towards the sea beyond the harbour.